Travel Journal

Leg 2 · Italy · complete

Florence

Sep 13 – Sep 14 · 1 nights · Solo (arrival), Carlie, Miguel, Zavier, Scott & Jennifer · ★★★★★

A chance meeting with family on Via de' Bardi, the statues of Piazza della Signoria, and a pasta class on a Tuscan farm with a very funny host.

“You don't have to be related to feel like family.”

A morning flight over the Alps took me from Paris into Italy, and Florence is where this became a family trip. I spent the first afternoon wandering on my own, ran into the whole family by chance, and the next day we cooked together on a farm in the Tuscan hills.

Five stars, and my only regret is how little time I gave it. I’d happily spend days in Florence, and more in the countryside around it.

Highlights

  • Piazza della Signoria: so much to see in one square
  • Running into the family on Via de' Bardi the day before the class, then wine and a Florentine steak together
  • Pasta class on a working farm in Sant'Ellero (booked by Carlie on Airbnb), with a host so funny and captivating she was the best part of the day
  • We made our own pasta, and it was the best dish of the day. Lunch was mostly from the farm, including olive oil and wine from its own olives and grapes

Misses

  • Only one night. Not enough time to really appreciate Florence

Next time

  • Give Florence at least 2–3 nights, plus time for the wider Tuscan region
  • Book the Uffizi and the Duomo climb for a day that isn't already full

Day by day

  1. Sun, Sep 13

    Arrival, and a chance meeting on Via de' Bardi

    Two good options, and family won.

    Italy was all new to me, and I was really excited. Getting into town took a while: a bus from the plane to the terminal, then the tram. At the tram stop a man was "helping" people with tickets. He didn't work for the tram company, and it looked like he was reselling tickets, so I steered around him and used the machine. I'd heard so much about pickpockets in Italy that my guard was already up.

    My room wasn't ready yet, so I left my bags, changed into shorts, asked Gemini for a few options, and ended up at La Petite for my first Italian lunch: burrata, tomatoes and a spritz.

    Once I'd checked in, I grabbed my camera and headed out on the itinerary's route, minus the Uffizi, since I never got a ticket. Piazza della Signoria became my favorite square. It's the statues out in the open, the history, the whole vibe of the place. So many people have stood there before me, and so many will after, and it's a lot to think about that people have been living here for two thousand years.

    To fill the Uffizi time, I took the scenic route toward dinner at La Beppa Fioraia, strolling along the Arno and following my eye with the camera, aiming to arrive when it opened at 7:30. Miguel had told me they were up on the hill, so I started walking their way, and halfway up Via de' Bardi, there they were, coming down: Carlie, Miguel, Zavier, Scott and Jennifer.

    I was really excited to see them, but I didn't want to intrude, so I hadn't counted on anything. It was one of those forks where either path would have been great: dinner and the sunset on my own, or an evening with family. They invited me along, so I dropped my plans and walked with them. We rested our feet over wine near Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, then had dinner at Osteria Le Petit Nuti. Not where I'd planned, but I still got my Florentine steak.

    Planned: Metro 14 to ORY 07:00 · Duomo / Campanile / Signoria · Uffizi 16:30 · La Beppa Fioraia + Piazzale Michelangelo sunset

    Crossing the Alps on the flight from Paris
    Crossing the Alps on the flight from Paris
    Piazza della Repubblica and its carousel on arrival
    Piazza della Repubblica and its carousel on arrival
    First Italian lunch: burrata, tomatoes and a spritz
    First Italian lunch: burrata, tomatoes and a spritz
    Palazzo Vecchio over a crowded Piazza della Signoria
    Palazzo Vecchio over a crowded Piazza della Signoria
    The Fountain of Neptune
    The Fountain of Neptune
    Cellini's Perseus in the Loggia dei Lanzi
    Cellini's Perseus in the Loggia dei Lanzi
    Palazzo Vecchio over Piazza della Signoria, my favorite square
    Palazzo Vecchio over Piazza della Signoria, my favorite square
    Giambologna's Rape of the Sabine Women
    Giambologna's Rape of the Sabine Women
    Menelaus Supporting the Body of Patroclus, in the Loggia
    Menelaus Supporting the Body of Patroclus, in the Loggia
    The David copy and Hercules at the Palazzo Vecchio door
    The David copy and Hercules at the Palazzo Vecchio door
    The Palazzo Vecchio courtyard, gilded columns and frescoes
    The Palazzo Vecchio courtyard, gilded columns and frescoes
    Painted vaults in the courtyard
    Painted vaults in the courtyard
    Grotesque frescoes on the courtyard ceiling
    Grotesque frescoes on the courtyard ceiling
    A fresco of a walled city in the courtyard
    A fresco of a walled city in the courtyard
    A marble statue in an inner courtyard of the palazzo
    A marble statue in an inner courtyard of the palazzo
    The courtyard inside Palazzo Vecchio
    The courtyard inside Palazzo Vecchio
    Painted vaults in the Palazzo Vecchio courtyard
    Painted vaults in the Palazzo Vecchio courtyard
    The Arno toward the Ponte Vecchio
    The Arno toward the Ponte Vecchio
    The Arno looking downstream
    The Arno looking downstream
    The Ponte Vecchio reflected in the Arno
    The Ponte Vecchio reflected in the Arno
    Ponte Vecchio, a wider frame
    Ponte Vecchio, a wider frame
    The Ponte Vecchio from the Ponte Santa Trinita
    The Ponte Vecchio from the Ponte Santa Trinita
    The Arno downstream from the Oltrarno
    The Arno downstream from the Oltrarno
    Brass door knockers piled in a box in the Oltrarno
    Brass door knockers piled in a box in the Oltrarno
    Palazzo Pitti across its sloping piazza
    Palazzo Pitti across its sloping piazza
    Santa Maria Novella in the late-afternoon sun
    Santa Maria Novella in the late-afternoon sun
    Dry-aged bistecca cuts in a butcher's case
    Dry-aged bistecca cuts in a butcher's case
    Whole sides of beef hanging in the window
    Whole sides of beef hanging in the window
    Dinner with Carlie and Miguel, and I got my Florentine steak after all
    Dinner with Carlie and Miguel, and I got my Florentine steak after all
  2. Mon, Sep 14

    Pasta on a Tuscan farm, train to Rome

    Three generations, one long table.

    We met at Santa Maria Novella and rode the train half an hour into the countryside to Sant'Ellero, where we were driven out to a working farm for the pasta class. Carlie found it on Airbnb Experiences (the farm).

    Our host was so funny and captivating that she was the most memorable part of the day. It all felt natural and homey. We could wander the farm freely and chat with the other guests, and the whole vibe was peaceful, relaxing and fun. We made our own pasta, and it turned out to be the best thing on the table. Everything else came from the farm too, including the olive oil and the wine from its own olives and grapes.

    What I took from that day is that family isn't only about who you're related to. The warmth and energy of the whole experience were amazing. It felt like home.

    Leaving felt rushed. I had to be at the station for a specific train, and it was hard to leave the family and head off on my own again. On the way to Rome I was already searching for properties in Tuscany. I'd barely scratched the surface of Florence, and I could feel how much more it had to offer. I definitely want to go back.

    Planned: Bags stored at hotel · pasta making & wine tasting 10:00–16:30 · Frecciarossa ~17:30 to Rome

    Piazza della Repubblica, early on pasta day
    Piazza della Repubblica, early on pasta day
    Zavier on the train to Sant'Ellero
    Zavier on the train to Sant'Ellero
    Sheep and a lamb grazing at the farm
    Sheep and a lamb grazing at the farm
    The farm's vineyard rolling down toward the village
    The farm's vineyard rolling down toward the village
    Rolling pins and bowls set out for the pasta class
    Rolling pins and bowls set out for the pasta class
    The long farmhouse table, before anyone sat down
    The long farmhouse table, before anyone sat down
    The farmhouse's stone fireplace
    The farmhouse's stone fireplace
    Herbs and ingredients on a table under a brick arch
    Herbs and ingredients on a table under a brick arch
    The farm's stone courtyard
    The farm's stone courtyard
    The farm dog asleep on the warm stone
    The farm dog asleep on the warm stone
    A lane between the farm buildings
    A lane between the farm buildings
    The old stone farmhouse
    The old stone farmhouse
    Zavier on a toy tractor in the farm courtyard
    Zavier on a toy tractor in the farm courtyard
    Carlie and Miguel against the farm's stone wall
    Carlie and Miguel against the farm's stone wall
    Looking out over the hills from the farm in Sant'Ellero
    Looking out over the hills from the farm in Sant'Ellero
    The farm's own olive oil, bread and wine set out on arrival
    The farm's own olive oil, bread and wine set out on arrival
    The long table where the family cooked together
    The long table where the family cooked together
    Our tagliatelle, rolled and cut by hand
    Our tagliatelle, rolled and cut by hand
    The pasta we made, with the farm's own wine. The best dish of the day
    The pasta we made, with the farm's own wine. The best dish of the day
    The farm's vineyard and the village beyond
    The farm's vineyard and the village beyond
    One last look at the Duomo before the train to Rome
    One last look at the Duomo before the train to Rome

Where my feet took me

Ate hereVisitedPhoto spot

  1. 1. Visited · Sun, Sep 13

    Piazza della Signoria

    My favorite square: the statues, the history, the vibe.

    Open in Google Maps ↗

  2. 2. Visited · Sun, Sep 13

    Palazzo Vecchio

    The gilded courtyard and its painted vaults.

    Open in Google Maps ↗

  3. 3. Photo spot · Sun, Sep 13

    Ponte Vecchio

    Reflected in the Arno.

    Open in Google Maps ↗

  4. 4. Ate here · Sun, Sep 13

    La Petite

    First Italian lunch while my room got ready: burrata and a spritz.

    Open in Google Maps ↗

  5. 5. Ate here · Sun, Sep 13

    Osteria Le Petit Nuti

    Plans abandoned, family found, and I still got my Florentine steak.

    Open in Google Maps ↗

  6. 6. Ate here · Mon, Sep 14

    The farm in Sant'Ellero

    We made our own pasta, with the farm's own oil and wine.

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More photos

Getting here & staying

Arrival: Vueling IB 5017 ORY→FLR, then Tram T2 + 500 m walk

La Dimora degli Angeli · Via dei Brunelleschi, by the Duomo · 1 night · 5/5
Great location, great room with AC, friendly staff, and bag storage worked perfectly. I'd stay again, and longer.

Playbook from this leg